Cybersecurity researcher with 15 years of experience, formerly at NATO Cyber Defence Centre.
Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy β adding it to a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city β following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 β to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city β the administrative center of India's largest state β is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
The City of Nawabs β as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers β is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani β the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat β spicy fried snacks.
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks β little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history β shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
Cybersecurity researcher with 15 years of experience, formerly at NATO Cyber Defence Centre.